There is no practical way to test the sensor, you can use a manual pressure guage, or just buy a new sensor, and swap it out, to see if that cures the problem. Only need one part of the harness not a problem these will plug right in old to new. There are two sensors involved, one for the clutch pack that controls the even numbered gears, and another for the one that controls the odd numbered gears. First has it had the tranny updates. It was cold for us in South Texas 40 degrees. Install the tube making sure it is pushed into the housing all the way.
Serial numbers include 501 from 1981 models, 3551 from 1982, 6015 from 1983, 7307 from 1984, 8623 from 1985. Read several posts that you can get aftermarket parts and not replace everything and it makes a pretty reliable transmission but not bullet proof like the complete update for a lot less money. If not greased often enough, they will not only wear quicker, but will 'plug' and not take grease. I am not familiar with the tractor and any help is most appreciated. A little won't hurt, but if you frequently swap tractors in stuff, it will get contaminated, one cylinderful at a time.
Switched the relays on the sentry, same result. I tend to get a little uptight. If it is working normal and you have a no drive I would not attempt to drive it until it is warmed up enough to go. I put a new end on the battery wire, checked grounds etc. The newer formulas are compatible now.
Also, I did a pressure check on the solenoid test ports, and I get 240 psi on the even gears, but on the odd, I get 240 psi until the sentry light comes on, then it drops to zero. However as already stated look for an updated trans. I can see the one with 11,000 hours being hard to get going, but the other two are pretty close on the hourmeter. I tend to get a little uptight. International Harvester started producing the 5088 Tractor in 1981 and continued until 1985.
. Not getting power to the pressure sensors. Switched the relays on the sentry, same result. Switched the relays on the sentry, same result. Basically the better part of the valve sits under the seat? The tractor is also making a little noise in the tranny area - sounds like a bad bearing to me. Inspect the 3 brake pistons.
Other than that those tractors are pretty straight forward. Install the drum being careful to not cut the teflon seals as they enter the valve body. With the drum removed ,the remaining 2 bolts holding the rear cover to the valve housing of the unit can now be removed. If it has too low of pressure, it is supposed to kick out of gear, to prevent damage to the cutch pack from slipping due to the low pressure. Has 600 weights, triple remotes. You would start out in the morning, and instead of moving, the tractor would sit there, and the 'sentry' light would be glowing.
Basically the better part of the valve sits under the seat? Jam it with the jam nut or set screw. Thank you for all your help. You need to see a good 250-300 lbs. The rear one goes to 240 psi until the sentry light comes on, then it goes back to zero. Thank you for all your help so far. I pushed in the clutch, went to 4th, everything was ok, but as soon as you go to odd gears, it bogs for 2-3 seconds, then takes off, then I found out, it still moves in the odd gears, but it is shifting itself up to the even gears. Anyway that is what I was told when we had to replace the pump on ours.
I switched the solenoids, problem stays in odd gears. Also, I did a pressure check on the solenoid test ports, and I get 240 psi on the even gears, but on the odd, I get 240 psi until the sentry light comes on, then it drops to zero. They are not and will cause transmission damage if left in for extended periods of time. The rear one goes to 240 psi until the sentry light comes on, then it goes back to zero. Check the rear axle seals. Write about your own experiences with the use or the experience of friends.