It consists primarily of a four element torque converter, three planetary gear sets, five clutch packs, one mechanical one-way clutch and a hydraulic pressurization and control system. Some of the below is from Im just hotlinking it for everyones convenience: First, what everyone is most likely interested in: In this zip file: 4L60-E Overhaul. Transmission rebuild overhaul kits year coverage: 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013 High-quality rebuilder kits are available for a variety of domestic, Asian-import and European-import vehicles. You made sure the dimensions of the second apply piston and housing are compatible with the other components. Transmission Overhaul Kits are offered on this page.
A new set of thrust washers: For now I'm using this coated metal one old left, new right that goes between the Driven Sprocket Support and the 2nd Clutch Drum: All these other replacement thrust washers will get used in the case cover and sprockets reassembly. Their locations do not affect the operation of the given valves. This transmission contains three planetary gear sets, three driving friction elements, five holding friction elements one of which is a servo applied band , two sprags, and a torque converter, which contains a clutch assembly for increased fuel efficiency. There are also aftermarket beefed-up output shafts, half axles, etc. The Transtec gasket sets are considered a premium kit, with higher quality gaskets and seals throughout.
After I get new piston seals out of an Overhaul kit, I'll probably swap this unit in it's entirety into the current trans and swap in the current trans' unit with Thrasher shift kit already installed. Once those teeth on the non-hardened pre-2003 shaft wear down completely, no more 4th gear. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. All the roller bearings, roller thrust bearings, and selective washers are fine. Now I have to take these assemblies to the lab and function-test the reinstalled piston and lip seals with compressed air to make sure all are properly installed.
The area near where the axle goes in had a gouge in it, looks to me from maybe a prybar or something used to remove the axle. According to the book, the retaining ring on the top is not reuseable: And I don't know if the Master kit comes with this retainer. The contents are targeted to the professional, meaning seasoned mechanics, rebuilders, body shops and others that have experience with the 4T60-E and transaxles but could use a solid reference point that can provide quick answers. Manual 2-1 Band: The 2-1 manual band is marginal for reuse. This is what I replaced in mine. Last edited by on Tue Jun 03, 2008 4:13 pm, edited 1 time in total. Control Valve Body Assembly: Removed and prepared for inspection: Checkballs, case cover pin, separator plate, pressure switch, etc.
Line Boost Valve and Pressure Regulator Valve: The line boost valve and reverse boost valve ride inside the boost valve bushing: The inner bore of the aluminum bushing is clearly worn, and these valves are rattling around inside too freely. I will credit that to my awesome cardboard box and ziploc bag organizational system. It covers everything from parts identification, exploded views, home specs, wiring harness locations, routing, electrical diagrams, internal planetary components, how to disassemble a transmission, how to rebuild the individual components, torque specs, valve body identification, extension housing overviews and much, much more. Had a W-body specific mount bolted to it, will probably give away or sell mount. That means not holding up production when you have an issue with checkball locations, torque specifications, transaxle assembly, wire schematics, 1-2 roller clutches or line pressure testing. There may be parts of the rebuild process that you are not very familiar with, or you may be new to this particular type of transmission.
Looked real good inside but I am replacing everything from seals to solenoids to steels. These pumps seem to be worn similarly otherwise. The non-electric shift will have a square wire plug with 2-4 wires. I think this will have been worth doing. I thought about getting new sealing rings or a kit and trying again, maybe with strips of neoprene between the clamp and the ring; but these rings are not exactly cheap enough for such experimentation, and the proper j-tools are extremely uncheap.
Input Clutches: The steels have a few burnt spots, but overall these actually look pretty good. The contents are targeted to the professional, meaning seasoned mechanics, rebuilders, body shops and others that have experience with the 4T60-E and transaxles but could use a solid reference point that can provide quick answers. For those considering a shift kit, that is basically some shims and some stronger replacement springs for the 1-2 and 2-3 accumulator pistons. This is what I replaced in mine. Transmission Manifold Fluid Pressure Switch: This funky thing has 6 separate pressure switches.
I had butterfingers and my vanes all fell out. Considering that, this transaxle repair and rebuild manual is more than worth its price. Maybe they are just too corroded. Drove Left axle oil seal out from behind with hammer and screwdriver. Would using the same pump and having the vanes not in the original location be a problem? Regulator valve looks good and the bore is fine.