Do this by removing the… Fuel Pressure Regulator is located on the fuel rail. I discovered the source of the leak is a rusty metal coolant line at the back of the engine that carries water from the heater core to the water pump. Disconnect the negative battery cable. If it's a stock torque converter, you don't really need an external cooler, the radiator cooler will be fine. The line that gets the hottest the quickest is the inlet.
If they are the same size then it usually does not matter which is inlet and which is outlet. Also if you go with a external cooler use the stacked plate type. It is located in the liquid side. . If tranny fluid flows out of the radiator, you have the outlet, if it flows out of the tube, you have the inlet and if what flows out is not tranny fluid, you have seriously gotten the wrong one. The actual drain outlet is behind the tire.
Your best bet is to Take the intake off by… Hi, If you just acquired this van check for: 1. In order to reduce the chance of personal injury, cover the regulator and the fuel line fittings with a shop towel before disconnecting. It's pointless and takes even more time to even get to your injectors. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the pressure regulator attaching screws.
My panel truck has two stacked plate type oil coolers instead of the in radiator one can't get to the fittings because of the fan shroud and the temp gauge never reaches 110 deg. I remember they were advertised as brake, fuel and transmission cooler line tubing. Eventually over time, the catyilizer can break up into pieces if this occurs, the catalytic converter can shift… Check out this site: www. I know that many are cursing right now, but understand the answer first. Do not interchange individual components timing belts, sprockets or tensioner spring assembles between 1993 and 1994-96…. The complete path is as follows: The heater core outlet hose connects to this pipe and the pipe then travels down the back of the motor and screws into the block.
I had considered a small rubber section for vibration relief but then I figured that over the length of the line there was plenty of room for flexing. Either way, the heat from the transmission does indeed slightly contribute to increased engine heat. I ran the hard lines along the edge of the oil pan, then split them apart under the front of an engine, pretty much just like the factory does it. They screw into the radiator and are cooled inside the radiator. Remove the pressure regulator attaching screws.
They may be slightly different sizes, so connect them accordingly. The tranny fluid lines have threaded connectors that are easy to disconnect. One could assume the upper hose in a tranny cooler is the out and the lower the return but who knows how it was installed. Discard… I worked for an Independent Volvo, and I got to see just this problem, sometimes the car would go, and sometimes it would stall. Online I found this routin diagram, a more simple application. There should be a valve on one of the lines on top of the manifold.
We need to know what year and engine you have to accurately answer that Q. I admit, there could be many possible problems, but what we found most of the time was the Cat Converter. Then releasing pressure from the fuel lines. Another way is to feel of the lines after you start the engine. If you're feeling brave you can start it cold and drive it around the block and then feel which one is hot and which is cooler.
And make sure the blowers are running properly. Using an in-radiator cooler keeps things simple, but a separate cooler would be better, cooling-wise. I would avoid copper lines, copper can be very reactive with the trans oil, serving as a catalyst to drive oxidation of the oil. They usually run right beside one another. I used the preformed steel lines.
You will find a complete removal and installation guide with photos. Bobby If you use a rubber hose, make sure it's made for cooler lines. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure. Remove the air cleaner outlet tube s. Most of the time it is in the evaporator inlet. Take a look at that auction site we all know and love; it'll give you some ideas of how to proceed, and what's available from the aftermarket.
If you are smelling it inside the car then your heater core may have a leak. I plan to go with hard lines and wondering the best routing configuration to keep it looking clean. If you run an auxiliary mount it where there is airflow and locate it where it can't get damaged. I'm using a Dodge truck radiator. This will catch any fuel that may leak out.